the essentials of Marseille

1- PETANQUE

Marseille and pétanque: a deep-rooted passion

In Marseille, pétanque isn't just a game: it's a culture. In the alleys of Le Panier, in the squares of Endoume, in the northern neighborhoods, or along the seafront, you can hear the light clash of steel on gravel, the exchange of jokes, and the cheers. Here, kicking a few balls isn't just a leisure activity—it's a social moment, a ritual of conviviality, a feature of local identity.

In this city of a thousand contrasts, pétanque connects generations: the old, faithful to tradition, mingle with the newcomers who discover this art of throwing. And during the summer, Marseille is transformed: its parks, its avenues, its boulevards, its surroundings of the Old Port, are taken over by ephemeral courts, witnesses of an enduring love for this modest and demanding sport.

But to understand this fervor, you have to delve into history, tread the grounds of Marseille, visit the local shops, and above all relive the great moments of the game...

A brief history of pétanque

The famous game of boules has existed since Antiquity and has survived through the ages, but it was during the 19th century that the game of boules expanded throughout France, presenting various versions depending on the region. In the south, it is the Provençal game that remains dominant.

Pétanque was born in 1907, more precisely in La Ciotat where the champion of the Provençal game, ill and unable to play, invented a new rule: remain motionless, "feet tanqués", in a circle drawn on the ground. Three years later, in 1910, the first official competition was organized.

The term comes from the Provençal words pèd "foot" and tanca "stake", giving in regional French the expression "to play pétanque"

The first steel boules appeared in 1927, but they definitively replaced the studded wooden boules in 1930. The discipline was structured with the creation of the French Pétanque and Provençal Game Federation in 1945, then the International Federation in 1958, founded in Marseille.

In 2005, pétanque was recognized as a high-level sport by the Ministry of Sports.

Petanque playing fields, bowling  in Marseille :

• Borély Park is one of Marseille's favorite parks. Between the greenery and the castle, there are several shaded bowling alleys. Free access and open to all
• Longchamp Park is located near the Palais Longchamp on Boulevard du Jardin Zoologique. It has several clay bowling greens.
• On the Old Port, near the Quai des Belges there are several pétanque courts, by the sea, facing the boats and enjoying a unique setting. There is also one located on the quay opposite the hotel.
• Au Stade Vélodrome, a world-famous football stadium. Outside the stadium are pétanque courts open to the public.

There are also plenty of pétanque courts, otherwise known as "boulodromes," throughout the city. Like La Boule du Panier and the Boulodrome de la Major in the 2nd arrondissement, Boulodrome du cours Julien Palais Carli in the 6th, or finally, the Boulodrome de la Vieille Chapelle in the 8th.

Shop:

Don't hesitate to also visit the famous boutique " the blue ball » at the heart of the basket that makes the authentic boule de Marseille. This is the place to be. Located at 4 Place des 13 Cantons in Le Panier, it is a boutique, museum, and workshop all rolled into one. The La Boule Bleue brand is an institution: its boules are made in Marseille, guaranteed for 5 years, and the company is labeled a Living Heritage Company.  

The rules of the game of pétanque — concise version

To play pétanque, you need to know a few basic principles. Here is an overview of the classic rules (FFPJP — French Pétanque and Provençal Game Federation):

• Composition of teams
  

• • Head-to-head: 1 against 1, each player has 3 balls.
  • Doublette: 2 against 2, each player has 3 balls.
  • Triplet: 3 against 3, each player plays with 2 balls.

• The jack (goal)
• The jack is thrown into the center of the field, at a regulatory distance (between 6 and 10 meters approximately).
• The throwing circle / the “tanked” circle
  The player throwing the jack draws a circle about 35–50 cm in diameter. All boules must be thrown from this circle with both feet anchored (feet “tanqués”).
• Progress of the game
  
  • The team that did not throw the jack first plays a boule.
  • Then the teams alternate (the weakest pushes back, or the closest continues).
  • Play continues until all the balls of each team have been thrown.

• Counting points
  At the end of the end, the team whose boule is closest to the jack (called the “best boule”) wins. It scores as many points as it has boules closer to the jack than its opponent's.
  Example: If team A has two balls closer than team B's best ball, they score 2 points.
• Victoire
  The game is usually played to 13 points (sometimes 11 points in recreation). The team that reaches this score first wins.
• Errors & disputes
  No one may step on balls already placed, nor touch those of the opponent. The circle may not be moved during the game. Judges or referees may decide disputes over the position of the balls.

These rules are relatively simple, which explains why pétanque is accessible to many, but mastery (positioning, shooting, strategy) requires practice.

The World Cup La Marseillaise of pétanque

At the beginning of July, the entire city becomes a stage: Parc Borély, the Allées du Prado, the central squares, even the seafront host improvised or permanent sites. The excitement is palpable. The official website of the Marseille Pétanque World Cup provides all practical information: program, sites, registrations, etc. 

2- THE MARSEILLES TAROT

It's often believed that the Tarot de Marseille was born in Marseille, but shhh, that's not true! In fact, it comes from Italy, where the first tarot decks were created. Marseille then played an important role in manufacturing and disseminating this style of cards, which is why it got its name.

Once considered simply a card game or a divination tool, the Tarot of Marseille is now enjoying a new lease of life. Whether you're a fan of the esoteric or simply a curious visitor, everyone can be captivated by this ancient deck.

It wasn't until the 17th century that the Tarot arrived in Marseille, via card printers. The city quickly established itself as the world's leading manufacturer of tarot decks. Some artisans didn't just copy the cards: they drew them, engraved them on wood, and painted them by hand. This is how the Tarot of Marseille acquired its unique style, with its vibrant colors, expressive characters, and simple symbols, which still give it its charm today.

Find near the famous Panier district The House of the Tarot of Marseille, a must-see place to discover authentic, historical, and artisanal tarot cards. Run by Emmanuel Coudreau, a passionate expert, the shop offers decks faithful to the traditions of master card makers from the 17th to 19th centuries. It also offers readings and initiations around historical tarot, in a setting steeped in history.

This boutique is located just 260 m from the Bellevue Hotel, a 4-minute walk. Address: 4 rue Méry, 13002 Marseille 2nd. Open Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 18 p.m.

Fun fact: “The oldest known “Tarot de Marseille” deck, dating from 1639, has just been found. Having disappeared for nearly 400 years, it reappeared at an auction in Paris and sold for nearly 65,000 euros! This Tarot deck, found intact and complete, was created by Philippe Vachier, a 17th-century master cardmaker from Marseille.” – Marseille Tourist Office website

3- THE SANTONS

The history of the santons of Provence 

The santons of Provence were born in Marseille at the end of the 18th century. During the French Revolution, churches were closed and public nativity scenes were banned. As a result, residents began to reenact the Nativity in their homes using small clay figurines. In 1797, a man named Jean-Louis Lagnel began making small clay figures in Marseille and selling them at an affordable price. The Musée Provençal de Château-Gombert preserves many of the original molds of Jean-Louis Lagnel's santons. People began to display their own nativity scenes at home. The santon became a form of political revolution.

Craft Shop 

Santons are small figurines made from Provençal terracotta from Marseille and Aubagne. Santon-making is a true art. After molding and drying, each figurine is fired and then hand-painted. There are several artisan shops, including La Maison Escofier at number 96 on the quayside just across from the hotel.

The characters of the Christmas crib 

The santons represent the Christmas crib, where we find the Holy Family (Joseph and Mary joined by Jesus Christ on December 25), then the ox and the donkey which, like a symbol, in a stable, watch over the divine child who has just been born. The three wise men are also represented, carrying gifts on the day of the Epiphany. We also find the typical characters of Provençal villages, such as for example: the shepherd, the fisherman, the washerwoman, etc. Each santon embodies a profession or a scene from daily life.

The santon fair, a tradition that is still alive today 

The first Santon fair took place in Marseille in 1803 on the Cours St Louis. Since then, this fair has been held every year, but the location has changed over the years, settling in the old port at the foot of the hotel. The Marseille Santon Fair begins each year on the third weekend of November and ends on December 31st. This fair features several santon maker stands. Throughout the fair, activities and workshops are offered for children, donkey rides in the fair, cooking workshops (Sunday mornings), and folk groups every Wednesday and weekend.

4- THE MARSEILLES SPEAKING

In Marseille, a separate language is spoken, called "Marseillais." The Marseille accent reflects the warm character of the locals, but Marseillais is above all a marker of the city's identity. A descendant of Provençal, the Marseille dialect is friendly and unique in the world.

Some vocabulary to understand Marseille speech 

• Peuchère: the poor, the poor little thing
• Fada: crazy
• Make yourself a pastaga: drink a pastis
• Minot: a boy, a young man
• Cagole: provocative and vulgar young woman.
• Pitchoun: little child
• Dégun: no one, none
• The Good Mother: the Notre-Dame de La Garde basilica, symbol of Marseille
• It sticks: it sticks
• Cagnard: strong heat
• To stink: to stink or else to pick a fight
• To moan: to grumble
• Quiller: to perch, to wedge
• Cafoutch = closet, a small storage room

Some Marseille expressions:

• “Se faire une pastaga”: drink a pastis
• “Bon bout d’an”: “Happy end of the year”
• “It’s too hot, I’m going to die”: “It’s too hot, I’m going to die”
• “We fear no one”: “we fear no one”
• “He’s completely drunk”: “He’s completely drunk”
• “It goes back to the year pèbre”: “The year pèbre, or “the pepper year” in Provençal, defines a very distant time.”
• “It’s too rené”: “It’s too bad”